Supplemental #78

This week we’re scrolling through the recipes by newspaper group.

The guardian and Observer

All in all, a pretty strong haul from this lot.

Was the best single collection of recipes this weekend the Kitchen Cooperative’s four ways with roasted plums in Saturday’s ‘Cook’ supplement? Quite possibly. Each of the ideas mixed temptation, inspiration, discovery and not too much faff: plum and nutmeg cobbler, plum mostarda, seven spiced roast duck salad (and plums), and a plum and salted almond ripple ice cream. Interesting but accessible – which is surely the main aim. Round of applause.

That said, Yotam Ottolenghi’s introduction in Saturday’s magazine to the forthcoming Nopi cookbook, and his co-author Ramael Scully, push those recipes very close. Yotam’s commendation of Scully is warming, and if the recipes in this extract are anything to go by (butternut squash with ginger tomatoes and lime yoghurt, spiced chickpea patties with coconut and curry leaf paste, and celeriac purée with spiced cauliflower and quail egg, and more) then this book is yet another Otto-musthave.

Nigel Slater contributed a couple of filled flatbread recipes to the Observer magazine. Both were fairly simple, but also full of flavour. I liked, in particular, the minced lamb, chilli, yoghurt and watermelon one. Basically because it’s a posh kebab.

Two excellent ideas from Thomasina Miers this week: a fennel gratin topped with hazelnut gremolata; and lemongrass and coconut, sweet corn polenta. Lovely slop.

Jane Baxter’s Salmon en croute, sugar snap, green beans and fennel, and herby potato salad would make an excellent meal. Just the right balance between old school and contemporary scran.

Baking with nut oils. Anyone do that much? I’m not wholly convinced any nut oil cake would be better than the same thing made with butter (unless you’re dairy intolerant). Nor am I convinced the cook, Ruby Tandoh, is wholly convinced either. But butter or not, my eyes were drawn to the rye, hazelnut and chocolate cake.

I’m very keen on Caroline Craig and Sophie Missing‘s cashew, cucumber and lime noodle salad.

Before we move rags, I want to mention some recipes from Nuno Mendes. Technically these don’t fit into Supplemental’s jurisdiction as they’re a mid week feature, but I commend to you the dressing in the chicory, pear and almond salad.

The Financial Times

Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich were unveiled as the FT Weekend’s new cookery writers. The Honey & Co’s column will appear fortnightly, so it looks like they’re joining a strong recipe roster of Fuchsia Dunlop, Jacob Kenedy, and Rowley Leigh (assuming he’s not been completely ditched?).

This week their recipes were titled ‘comforts and joy’, and included lamb and beef kofta with roasted vegetables, peppers stuffed with lamb and feta, and lovely malabi (a near set milk pudding) and roasted peaches.

The Times and Sunday Times

A fair amount of content emerged from Murdoch towers this weekend.

Saturday was fairly typical. This weekend’s glossy serialisation was of the Caldesi’s latest tome: ‘Rome: Centuries in an Italian kitchen‘.  ‘Anna’s sardine bake’ was my favourite of their recipes. There were four brief fig recipes. And Donna Hay’s recipes were ‘very fast’. Thank God, because I was getting worried that they’d only give us merely fast ones. Can’t wait for the ‘already digested for you’ edition. Food is such a bore.

The next day, The Sunday Times launched their monthly food magazine, ‘The Dish‘, which included 16 recipes alongside various short articles. The fact they lead with Jamie Oliver, John Torode and Faye Ripley indicates that, to start with at least, this will be pretty populist and mainstream in content.

Of the recipes, Jamie’s harissa roasted aubergine, pomegranate and other bits rice looks pretty zingy. Florence Knight’s recipes were decent (especially the walnut and sage butter kievs with wilted bitter leaves). And Anna Jones was also good, with a no doubt delicious tomato, pepper and ricotta tart, and an umami rich saffron, chick pea, bean and courgette stew that’s served with a poached egg.

The Telegraph an The Sunday Telegraph

First things first, you ought to have a read of Diana Henry’s ‘how to write a cookbook’. Nice insight to her creative process.

Then get down to Stephen Harris’ notes and recipe on confit duck and cabbage.

Turn next to an article on autumnal British asparagus. My eyebrows were raised and forehead fairly scrunched when reading of how a Herefordshire farmer is growing ‘gras spears well beyond the end of the traditional season. But do form your own opinion. I wouldn’t want to colour your own view, not least because, as a child of the Vale of Evesham (God’s own asparagus country), my doubts come heavily prejudiced. I might try some of the recipes that accompany the article … next spring.

Finally, if browsing the Telegraph’s food section, I’d head to Diana Henry’s ‘Stella’ column, which this Sunday was themed around simple and seductive recipes from Southern Italy. Ye Gods, sea bass in crazy water looks perfect.

The Independent and Independent on Sunday

Still with me?

After all that, it was rather nice to have a quick browse of the Indy’s recipe offer. Merely two columnists and a baby’s fist of recipes. How pleasingly focused.

Mark Hix suggested cooking things in heavy but mini skillets, basically to achieve fried egg versions of baked cocottes. The ideas are simple but probably effective: like chanterelles, quail egg and scallops; black pudding, hen eggs and apple sauce; duck eggs with devilled kidneys. The kind of breakfast that’s accompanied by a strong coffee, shot of PX, and washed down with a damson gin and tonic.

On Sunday, Bill Granger proposed a trio of light dinners – which he noted were likely to be the last of the season, before heavier autumnal food kicks in. I write as the blue Sunday sky draws in, and have to say I quite fancy the turmeric prawns, rice noodles and fresh herbs. But might just get a takeaway curry instead.

From the internet

Peaches are pretty good at the moment. The Kitchn’s 15 ideas for them are also pretty good, particularly the cobbler bar and various tarts and turnovers.

#Supplemental cooking

I had a crack at Florence’s warm confit tomato, pumpkin and dandelion salad. Great, early autumn flavours. Good mix of bitter leaves, sweet pumpkin, and mega umami toms.

 

Weekend Menu, 5 and 6 September 2015

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Pearl barley risotto with watercress, courgette and pecorino

Yotam Ottolenghi and Ramael Scully, the guardian

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Sea bass in crazy water

 Diana Henry, the Sunday Telegraph, ‘Stella’

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Plum and salted almond ripple ice cream

The Kitchen Cooperative, the guardian, ‘Co0k’

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