Supplemental #186

Here we go: a Daddy-load of recipes from the weekend’s papers.

There are plenty of tasty things to consider for the days and weeks ahead — roasts without roast potatoes, quality ice cream, picnic fodder, things to do with strawberries, and (once again) lots of sweet stuff.

The Telegraph and Sunday Telegraph

First and foremost: the sweet dish of the week trophy goes to Stephen Harris’ Breton cake with gooeseberries and elderflowers. Congratulations Stephen, this must be right up there with the most prestigious awards you have collected over recent years.

Is it just me, or are the strawberries tasting particularly good this year? The Telegraph’s web pages offer a strong selection of recipes to help make the most of them, including Diana Henry’s strawberry and buttermilk ice cream, Sue Quinn’s pomegranate and strawberry sorbet, Stephen Harris’ take on a strawberry tart, as well as something a bit unusual from the same chef: beetroot, strawberry and rose salad. (No, me neither. Though he can still keep this week’s pudding award.)

On Sunday Tom Kerridge provided his summery version of roast chicken. He finishes his intro by saying that the chicken and its sides that follow prove that roasts aren’t just for a traditional Sunday lunch … which is true, though I have a feeling what the recipes really show are that in summertime you can (should) tweak the traditional ideal of a Sunday roast. At least I hope that’s the case, because that’s my view too. See if you agree — next weekend, line up paprika and thyme rubbed roast chicken, and serve with roast lettuce with an anchovy dressing, plus charred cucumber and courgettes with green olives and mint. #hashtagnoneedforroastpotatoes

And in the Stella Magazine, Diana Henry pushed three cold noodle salads for hot days. I love the look of all of these: soba noodles with crisp vegetables and a Korean-style dressing; rice vermicelli noodles with loads of herbs and salmon; egg noodles with chicken, crisp vegetables and a peanut sauce.

The Times and Sunday Times

Of Candice Brown’s sweet things in The Sunday Times Magazine, I felt the addition of Biscoff biscuits and spread to a brownie could work very well indeed, and probably wouldn’t say no to chocolate profiteroles with orange curd and whipped cream (though personally think they would be better topped with a proper, warm and runny chocolate sauce, rather than a splodge of ganache).

These followed a tea party’s worth of sweet things in Saturday’s Weekend supplement, extracted from Leah Hyslop’s Made in London. I can personally vouch for Leah’s take on the chocolate bourbon biscuit, and definitely would tuck into the gin and lemon drizzle cake. See also the raspberry and coconut topped Tottenham cake, strawberry sponge and lavender scones.

The Magazine had a raft of book extract recipes too, this time via Gunpowder. A modern take on Indian cuisine, so things like masala-seasoned fishcakes, coconut sambal-stuffed (and then crumbed) John Dory, roast mackerel coated in a spiced tomato marinade.

FT Weekend Magazine

In the FT Weekend Magazine, the Honey & Co duo served up a lush looking dish of duck breast with endive, pomegranate and pomegranate molasses. Simple stuff, thought the devil is in the detail — or, more specifically timing — and their methodology notes helpfully guide the cook in ensuring all comes together at once.

The Guardian and The Observer

’twas picnic time over at Feast HQ. I always enjoy reading the aspirational outdoor eating recipe columns, and have contributed to a few myself. That said, anyone else absorb everything you see on the glossy pages … but end up filling your bag/basket/boot with the same shop bought pork pie, quiche, hummus, cherry tomatoes, crisps and strawberries? Mmmhmmm.


Yotam Ottolenghi’s portable picnic dishes involved a really good looking giant couscous salad (couscous cooked in chicken stock, loads of herbs, lemon, almonds, cumin and golden raisins); nice idea of roasting veg, that can then be shoved into sandwiches built while sat on the rug; and then a bonkers cake-pie, with a potato base, topped with tuna mayo, olives, soft boiled eggs and tomatoes tossed in harissa.

I reckon Meera Sodha’s wild rice salad — with roast cauliflower, aubergines and a ‘muddle’ of other things, plus a tamarind dressing and yoghurt to finish — will be reeet nice.

Anna Jones provided the dips. (link to recipe to follow when online — also offerings from Thomasina Miers and Rachel Roddy.)

And Rosie Birkett suggested four very doable salads — classic panzanella and raw courgettes with chilli and mint, but also smashed cucumber with peanuts and orzo with slow roast tomatoes and broad beans.

Sunday was an Observer Food Monthly day. I mentioned Kitty Travers and her ice creams last week, so it was pleasing to see a handful of her debut cook(chill?)book’s recipes in the OFM. Vanilla plum, apricot noyau (which include the flavour of the kernel), passion fruit sour … and more. Proper.

Nigel Slater’s offering was for summer dishes that go well served en masse and ambient. Casual group eating, basically. Scallops get marinated in lime and served on a mush of acidic tomatoes and cucumber; trout is flaked into a herby potato salad; pork chops are matched with gooseberries and a parsley mash; and there’s an enticing cherry drizzle cake worth trying. (Link to follow.)

The monthly supplement also housed enticing Cretian cooking courtesy of the talented Marianna Leivaditaki, head chef at Morito Hackney Road (always delicious btw). Give serious consideration to her fava bean purée, courgette flowers stuffed with goat’s curd and anchovies, rolled lamb breast with a variety of sauces plus flatbreads, fast pickled veg side salads, baked aubergines with freekeh tomato sauce and sheep’s cheese béchamel (this looks mighty fine) and a really intriguing orange and broken filo pastry pie (as does this). Everything, really.

Finally, over in the main Observer Magazine, Nigel went with a similar theme to my interpretation of Tom Kerridge’scolumn, suggesting we treat summer’s Sunday roast as a different beast to that served in winter. I loved the idea of both his recipes: for rolled lamb breasts stuffed with a sautéed spinach, feta, spring onion paste and served with loads of peas; and roast duck, torn up and folded into couscous flavoured with loads of orange, coriander, parsley and pea shoots. As before, #hashtagnoneedforroastpotatoes.

From the internet

Quite fancy some of Niamh Eat Like a Girl‘s pork and lemongrass kebabs.

This yellow fish curry via Delicious caught my eye.

Ditto Olive’s ‘Bombay fish pie’.

Weekend Menu, 16 & 17 June 2018

Courgette flowers stuffed with goat’s curd and anchovies

Marianna Leivaditaki, The Observer Food Monthly

Lamb breast, feta, spinach and peas

Nigel Slater, The Observer Magazine

Breton cake with gooseberries and elderflower

Stephen Harris, The Telegraph

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