How has your Bank Holiday been? I guess a few of you will have been slaving away at the stove. But also that others probably cut themselves off from cooking and reading and stuff, so are in need of a summary to tee them up for the next few nights. Helpfully, all the weekend’s recipes are set out below …
The first thing I saw when embarking on this week’s #Supplemental, was Honey & Co’s red pepper, vine leaf, and goat’s cheese dolma cake. Not going to lie — I almost hung up my laptop there and then. What a blinding recipe. Bookmark that and get on it when you can.
That said, you should also read Bee Wilson’s precis of M.F.K. Fisher’s The Gastronomical Me. Which absolutely looks to be something we should all purchase, read and digest.
There were some gorgeous, gorgeous things in the Graun over the weekend.
On Saturday in Cook, Anna Tobias, formerly of Rochelle Canteen, reminded us of beef stroganoff, and took our goulash game to a higher level whilst using pig cheeks and smoked sausages.
All the while Jeremy Lee was knocking up a lemon curd to go with polenta cake and lashings of cream (of course), and Rachel Roddy a simple supper of braised green beans with tomatoes, onions and some salty feta — to be eaten at room temperature.
Yotam’s worried that spuds are going out of fashion. So served us harissa and confit garlic roasties, salt cod fishcakes, and new potatoes with burnt spring onion and peas.
Thomasina’s poached chicken and herby freekeh salad seems to me to be absolutely pitch perfect for this muggy weather. The kamut chocolate brownies that follow, on the other hand, are for all seasons.
I thought Lord Slater’s radish recipes were ace. Indeed the idea of pickled radishes with watermelon and coppa is one I’ll probably steal for Nape. I’d also never say no to radishes sautéed with coriander and cumin seeds served with lamb chops, lemon zest and fresh mint. Ta, too, for the cheeky anchovy butter and pickled radish and carrot methods tagged on at the end.
For these, our salad days (yes, I fear mine are behind me too, but stick with the segue), Diana Henry adds a rather fine sounding chicken and nectarine platter with green beans, salad leaves and a basil mayonnaise. And I’m drawn to her kinda-Italianish take on a Provençal grand aïoli — anchovy, pistachio and burrata instead of the garlicky mayo, with blanched asparagus, radishes and peas on the side.
I’m pumped for the start of gooseberry season, so was pleased to see two good looking recipes in Flora Shedden’s Telegraph column: a cake involving honey and desiccated coconut; and posset style gooseberry pots with crystallised ginger and crumbled gingernuts sprinkled on top.
Stephen Harris suggested a spring-ish navarin of lamb with baby leeks, peas, broad beans and young carrots.
The Times and Sunday Times
In Saturday’s glossy Magazine, Nadiya Hussain proposed ‘Cupcake doughnuts’. Though as far as I can tell, there’s no dough, just cupcakes with a little jam in the middle.
Donna Hay’s latest set of rapid midweek meals graced the pages too (herby chickens, various skewers and cutlets and stuff).
Among a set of mezze suggestions in Saturday’s Weekend section, I’m weirdly keen on the bag of frozen broad beans that are sautéed with garlic and fresh coriander.
But move swiftly on to The Sunday Times, where Jamie’s adds seared tuna with spring vegetables and smashed new potatoes to Tommi and Diana’s fine salad-ish efforts. And the Caravan cookbook’s roast butternut squash with buttermilk dressing, confit garlic and soy sauce glazed pumpkin seeds looks to be a pretty stellar side dish.
From the internet
Whilst I don’t love messing with asparagus too much, this ginger, miso, lime and mirin dressing for grilled ‘gras will be a good twist now we’re careering towards the end of the season.
And I’m very keen for a slice of Bon Appetit’s strawberry-rhubarb pie. Vodka and apple cider in the dough, interestingly (more for science than taste).
A commendation in Natalie Whittle’s “the best … summer food books” for the FT Weekend, which was kind. Also from India Knight at the base of her Sunday Times Magazine column, which this week happened to be on the joy of cookbooks (and is both worth a read, and possibly still free from the paywall).
Victoria Stewart gave On the Side a thorough going over for The Evening Standard last week (and it seemed to come out OK). And the latest Waitrose Weekend reviewed it positively too.
What, you come to #Supplemental for recipes not trumpet blowing? Well the independent.co.uk housed 3 from On the Side on Saturday — new potatoes with pickled samphire and sorrel (have these next to roast chicken or monkfish), anchovy-dressed chicory and those warmed radishes with anise and orange — so head on over there.
But of course you could just grab a copy and get 137 more … it’s dirt cheap atm.
Weekend Menu, 27 and 28 May 2017
Pickled radishes, watermelon and coppa
Nigel Slater, The Observer
Pork cheek goulash
Anna Tobias, The Guardian Cook
Gooseberry and ginger pots
Flora Shedden, The Telegraph
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