A reader wrote last week to mention that they’d cooked the 22 & 23 April Supplemental menu in its entirety. I’ve always thought of this feature as something of a footnote to the regular recipe rundown — essentially a mention in passing of my fantasy meal that weekend, or a bucket list of dishes to go back to. So kudos to that man for having a crack, not least because it was a particularly gastronomic selection: Yotam’s burrata with sorrel and pea salsa, Tommi’s asparagus and brown butter risotto with mace and brown shrimps, and Ed Kimber’s cardamom creme brûlée tartlets with roasted rhubarb. Apparently (thankfully) all delicious.
This week’s menu might take a similar effort, but I’d wager will be no less worthwhile.
Fnnnnaarr
A number of recipes got me salivating pretty heavily.
- My word, Jacob Kenedy’s rakott káposzta looks awesome. Jacob garnered this layered bake of sauerkraut and minced pork from his grandmother, and plonked it straight in front of us via Cook’s A Taste of Home section. Imma gonna wolf that down, though will keep a pack of Rennie close by. (TMI?)
- In the same supplement (which other than Kenedy’s was ‘pizza’ themed), Jeremy Lee’s poached pear and hazelnut frangipane galette looks like one of those things you’ll need to make double of to satisfy the gannets.
- I’m intrigued by Nigel Slater’s marinated burrata and asparagus in the Observer Magazine. And also love his posh cheese on toast (wild garlic, spinach, taleggio).
- And I’d thought Jeremy’s was a shoe in for the pudding of the week, until I read Yotam’s banana and cardamom tart with sea salt caramel for the Graun Weekend mag. And now I don’t know. (Also, gumbo.)
Communal dining
Good to dine with others, isn’t it? I find it helps to regulate the speed and quantity of my eating.
- The Telegraph (possibly Sunday’s Stella magazine?) housed recipes from Alice Levine and Laura Jackson’s Round to Ours, a book with menus and tips for entertaining with ease. On the menu: dips such as labneh and walnuts to go with flat breads, and a chickpea salad next to a simple spiced olive and lemon chicken stew.
- As it happens, I could’ve sworn I read an article a year or so a go saying the dinner party was dead … but then Stephen Harris’ balsamic chicken (and nod to Lord Simon Hopkinson) is suitably and probably lip-smackingly retro (Yep, Telegraph).
- Rose Prince’s seasonal column (also for The Telegraph) contained a bunch of things I’d like to try. Sea bream ceviche with shaved fennel and red radishes, and a horseradish and watercress dressing grabbed me. I’m also interested in the pine nut and fresh mint biscuits served with a lemon sorbet.
- Flora Shedden’s kiwi and coconut pavlova would finish a dinner party well (Telegraph, again).
- The Times was relatively light on recipes this weekend (none at all in the Sunday version because they were making us all covet cash and other things that are useless because you can’t eat them). But I’d share with others a handful of the ‘store cupboard’ dishes Donna Hay suggests dried porcini and tarragon rigatoni; buttermilk, jalapeño, lime and coriander marinated steaks; and satay chicken wings. The Antipodean origin of these recipes is apparent, though, isn’t it — surely XO sauce isn’t that convenient / available over here yet?
- But after all that, I wonder if actually everyone would be happiest with some Roman pizza by the slice (Rachel Roddy, The Guardian’s Cook)?
Afternoon tea
For your tea break this arvo:
- Tommi Miers’ coffee and cardamom bundt cake with brandy and coffee syrup will go down very nicely, thanks very much.
- If you’d prefer the coffee in your cup and a stronger hit of sugar hit to get you to the end of the day, order-in some of Honey & Co’s Ketmer, a fancy baklava with pistachio cream and rose syrup (and in this instance a hit of tart rhubarb on the side). Oh — does this trump Yotam’s tart?
- I’ll also add Anna Jones’ latest offering for Cook [here it is – pizzas], plus a nod towards the OFM’s brunch special. Which looked good from afar, but I haven’t seen yet as it wasn’t online when compiling this [part one: look out for Tom Oldroyd’s breakfast pasta, Shuko Oda’s pork belly and miso soup, and Peter Gordon’s pretty perfect looking Turkish eggs).
On the Side watch
No doubt this broken record is already boring. But I’ve a book out…
Here are some places you could find recipes from On the Side this weekend:
- There was a big ol’ write up in The Irish Sunday Times, including three recipes plus suggestions as to what they’d go well with (Sobrasada sweet potatoes, Radishes with anise and orange, and White beans with fennel seeds, chilli and garlic).
- The i Weekend featured recipes for Beetroot red rice with wild oregano, Butter beans with courgette and tapenade, and Sweet potato and rosemary hash-rostis. They’re the ones underneath the asparagus pic. Not sure if these go up online.
- In May’s Delicious you’ll stumble upon Roast Romano peppers and a Chopped kale, romanesco and parmesan salad.
Though the complete book is also an option and currently a bargain.
Internet bits and pieces
Dunno if it’s a glitch in the mainframe, or intentional, but there’s a wacky Antipodean brunch recipe from the Australian version of the Guardian on the main food page atm: macadamia and courgette fritters with corn salsa, smoked salmon, horseradish and crumpets.
Also, note Helen Graves’ new project (she of Food Stories fame): Pit Magazine. Will have lots of good bits in.
Weekend Menu, 6 and 7 May 2017
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Sea bream ceviche, fennel, radish, horseradish and watercress
Rose Prince, The Telegraph
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Rakott káposzta
Jacob Kenedy, The Guardian Cook
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Pistachio cream and rose ketmer
Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, The FT Weekend Magazine
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