Supplemental #144

A list! Of recipes! From the weekend papers! Huzzah!

The recipes

  • The Guardian Weekend mag hosted the first extract of Thomasina Miers’ new book, Home Cook. IMO, over the last eighteen months her weekly recipes in the same supplement have gone from strength to strength, and this book is a corker too — it’s massive, stacked full of tempting, unfussy and achievable recipes. In this week’s sample, look to the corn and double cheese muffins, the salmon ceviche and tarragon-laced beetroot, and the Moroccan fish stew.
  • There was a set of Taiwanese-ish recipes from Yotam in the same magazine. The one I’ll try is the pork and preserved vegetable stir-fry. Maaaan, I love mustard greens.
  • Pie time over at Cook. Well, I mean, theoretically it was, though the sweet section was actually stacked with tarts — not a lid to be seen — which would be mega awks, were they not all totally delectable. Head straight to Jeremy “king of pudding” Lee’s apricot frangipane.
  • Less controversially (for the pie pedants among us) was a section on hand-raised pork pies, which included Sarah Pettegree’s recipe for a Norfolk pork pie, complete with East Anglian road kill (or shop bought pigeon, depending how you roll). One to bookmark for next time you fancy a project. Also, a couple of good veggie fillers from Anna Jones — I particularly liked the mix of cheddar, kale and butterbeans with a celeriac rosti topping.
  • Times subscribers now have access to a decent fist full of winter warmers from the Donna Hay stable. Such as luscious looking cider glazed pork chops and colcannon; prune stuffed pork belly with roast red cabbage; and a potato, cabbage and tarragon pie. Which, incidentally, is not a ‘pie’, just a bake. Sigh.
  • In the same Saturday Times Magazine, Nadiya advocated jammy/curdy lemon tarts over the posh custardy ones.
  • And there were some decent 30 minuters from Bec Dickinson in the Weekend section. Mushroom and goat’s cheese frittata and ricotta and rocket gnocchi look like good things to take into work for lunch al desco.
  • I loved Sarit and Itamar’s words on making a meal from store cupboard detritus in the FT Weekend Magazine, which ended in a “very bastardised” version of harira, a spicy Moroccan soup. Beans, lentils, chickpeas, dried pasta, chorizo, chopped toms and so on. All the good things. Cumin and baharat are probably the secret ingredients that turn it from ordinary to something to make often.
  • Lots from Nigel this weekend. In the normal Observer magazine: some Viennese inspired dishes like black pudding, apple, celeriac and mustard mash, and a rather good sounding clove, cinnamon and orange poached pear (with the poaching liquor turned into granita). But it was an OFM week, too. And his winter citrus-licked recipes were good ones. Particularly puntarelle with grapefruit and capers, sea bass ceviche with blood orange, and a cotechino and lemon spud number.
  • Also in the OFM Yotam recommended Claudia Roden’s Book of Middle Eastern Food to us. Check out the Syrian stuffed kibbeh, chicken soup with lemon, lamb and pasta stew (lissan al assfour) and a filo take on bread and butter pudding (om ali). I
  • Soups from Florence Knight in the Sunday Times Magazine. The addition of roast garlic to a basic beetroot number is good, and a well seasoned pork rib and cannellini bean chappy will be lush.
  • And so, finally, to the Telegraph’s troops. Stephen Harris opined on chocolate tart making and also gave us a blood orange ice cream (killer match). I thought Rose Prince’s spiced peanut sauce with eggs and winter veg was a cool idea. And would be very happy with a plate of her soy braised beef, noodles and quick pickled carrots.
  • On Sunday, Flora Shedden called tarts tarts, not pies. So that was good. (Caramelised shallot tart; and a kale, butternut squash and goat’s cheese). Was there a Diana Henry column too? I didn’t see it.

From the Internet

I like the fish head curry within this Lucky Peach collection.

And after having some superb Richard Turner X St John trotter gear dishes on Wednesday night, I commend to you this Jeremy Lee guinea fowl, trotter gear and red wine recipe on The Gannet; and the chicken, bacon and trotter gear pie within this set of recipes.

Weekend Menu, 18 and 19 February 2017

Hamud — Chicken soup with lemon

Claudia Roden, Observer Food Monthly

Pork and pigeon pie and a pickled onion

Sarah Pettegree, the Guardian, Cook

Bitter chocolate tart and blood orange ice cream

Stephen Harris, The Telegraph (Saturday)

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