Supplemental #138

The papers presented one final week of Christmas ideas — which of course you’ll completely ignore in favour of the same things you do every year. Still, many of the recipes are worth considering for other occasions.

The Times and Sunday Times

Big fan of Florence’s Sunday Times recipes this weekend, particularly the tempura battered winter squash and mayo; and the baked brandy custard (creme caramel).

I also found Ben Tish’s Italian-inspired Chrimbo recipes in Saturday’s Magazine mighty tempting. Everything in the column, actually: from salt baked sea bass (thought we’re not supposed to be eating that atm?); roast goose with walnut gremolata, braised figs and a fennel and potato gratin; to the excellent sweet options of a pear, almond and polenta cake; and marsala figs with zabaglione.

Spiced plum crumble by Nadiya.

In the weekend section, food editor Tony Turnbull channelled his inner Felicity Cloake to analyse and propose the “perfect mince pies“. He makes them with pastry and mincemeat, cooking them in an oven before serving.

The Guardian and Observer

Tonnes of great recipes from the York Way Massive. Beginning with Yotam’s ‘comfort eating’ over the festive period. Chorizo and almond stuffed romano peppers looked good. But keep scrolling down the page until you get to sticky roast guinea fowl with kabocha squash. Fffnnnaah.

Thomasina suggested squid with Persian rice on Christmas eve, and a not-new-but-still great grilled pear, radicchio, tarragon and blue cheese dressing number.

Read of the week (it so often is), was Rachel Roddy on her Britalian Christmas eating plans. Her menu is pitch perfect — homely but special. Do you Deliveroo? If not, I guess we’ll have to make the recipes ourselves: mushroom paté; squash ravioli; porchetta; braised lentils; spinach with pine nuts and raisins; intriguing saffron and dried fruit pangiallo (‘yellow bread’).

Also in Cook, I loved all of Claire Ptak’s alternative Christmas puddings. The theme is inevitable and easy to roll eyes at, but things like figgy mulled wine honey cake and dulce de leche, flan and chocolate cake pudding extravaganza appeared pretty original and are definitely things to try.

Nigel provided a few ideas for nibbles and cocktails over the next week or so. I thought the addition to prosecco of pomegranate juice, cardamom and clementine was a particularly good idea — that juice and fizz equalising each other’s sour and sweet. Also, green olive and Parmesan puff pastry twists will go well.

FT Weekend

A pear and walnut cake from Honey & Co’s Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich.

And something I missed from a few weeks ago: Rowley Leigh answering the question that was on your lips: “how do I cook a pheasant inside a chicken?

The Telegraph

Diana Henry threw in some last minute Christmas bits ‘n’ bobs. Like Christmas crumble bars (mincemeat, cranberries, apples on short pastry and topped with crumble); fig and hazelnut crisp breads to go with the Stilton; and spiced pickled orange slices that’ll go so well next to ham.

The third Italian inspired Christmas menu of the weekend came via Angela Hartnett, and I’m happy to say it matched both Ben Tish and Rachel Roddy’s. Filled ‘anolini’ in meat broth; roast duck with a pancetta and almond stuffing; with a few fresh salads on the sides (helped by the fact that we’re rushing into bitter leaf and citrus season); and finished with a walnut cake. Lots of good eating to be had — maybe we should ditch the turkey and follow the Italophiles lead?

Having said that, Stephen Harris took back control for the Brits, providing a perfect gravy recipe.

On the internet

To Munchies, once again, for Max Halley’s extraordinary project sandwich: a Korean inspired braised beef, kimchi, slaw and various deep fried noodles in focaccia. Difficult to know whether it’s more effort to make it, or to get to Crouch Hill to try it in his shop.

Check out Helen Grave’s jerk spiced corn fritters with sour cream and hot sauce.

That’s it’s for #Supplemental until next year. See you on the other side.

Weekend Menu, 17 and 18 December 2016

Pomegranate and prosecco


green olive puffy pastry twists

Nigel Slater, The Observer

Roast goose with walnut gremolata and braised figs


A fennel and potato gratin

Ben Tish, The Times Magazine

Dulce de leche and chocolate pudding

Claire Ptak, The Guardian Cook

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