Supplemental #132

Supplemental is in relatively rapid list form today. Apologies. Or maybe you prefer it this way?

Whatever, here’s the latest digest of the recipes in the weekend papers. Look out for a number of grape ideas, a couple of cracking desserts (via Honey & Co and Ottolenghi) and, when it’s online later today, Anna Jones’ ace beetroot soda bread.

  • Good autumnal flavour combos by Rose Prince in Saturday’s (now more aggressively paywalled) Telegraph, including: quince and celery soup; mutton tagine with grapes and braised barley; spatchcock pheasant tandoori with instant flatbreads.
  • Also in that paper, Stephen Harris proposed a beef chilli to keep warm before / during / after the fireworks.
  • And some really nice looking grape-led recipes by Diana Henry on Sunday. She’s right, we’re more used to grapes as a condiment to go with cheese, or a way of dispensing the “get better soon” message. Her ideas are all about cooking this fruit, though: black grape and red wine sorbet; gently simmered, syrupy grapes to go with pancakes; and a griddled chicory, roast grape and Gorgonzola salad.
  • LOTS of recipes in this month’s Sunday Times ‘The Dish’ supplement. Not least from Jamie Oliver. For me, his best were Welsh rarebit with chilli jam; roast duck and cranberry hoisin pancakes; and baked chocolate pots with clementine syrup and creme fraiche.
  • Also in there, Florence Knight offered cuddles and comfort, with brisket and butter beans; and braised chickpeas with squash and yoghurt.
  • There were a clutch of veg-centric bits and bobs by Antonio Carlucci in Saturday’s Times Weekend. I particularly liked a Swiss chard and artichoke tart, a novel beetroot lasagne, courgettes stuffed with sweetly spiced sausage meat, and an interesting looking ham, cheese and potato cake.
  • In The Times Magazine: Donna Hay’s pasta bakes. Duck ragu; gnocchi and ‘shrooms; and sweet potato, spinach and Gorgonzola stuffed conchiglioni stood out.
  • A strong contender for Best Pudding of the Weekend came via the FT Weekend’s Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich: honey mousse with caramelised apples and a charred almond crumble. Incidentally the first Honey & Co. weekend recipe I’ve noticed which majors on honey. A touch of cinnamon to each of the elements too.
  • And so on to the Grauniad. Thomasina’s Saturday recipes went big on quince. A tactic I’m always a sucker for. Look there for chicken thighs with barley, chickpeas and roast quince; and a brown sugar and hazelnut meringue, plus poached quince.
  • In the same Weekend magazine, Ottolenghi chose to champion chestnuts — stuffing poussin with them, adding them, with prunes, into brownies, and creating a divine, Honey & Co mousse challenging plum, chestnut and walnut frangipane tart.
  • In Cook, Claire Ptak provided ingredients and method for a pumpkin and maple bundt cake, and an intriguing, intense, roast butternut squash caramel (roast, puréed, reduced by half and served with pork or ice cream). And Rachel Roddy proposed a no doubt delicious green bean and potato bake (on a similar theme to the Carluccio potato cake).
  • Nigel Slater suggested delicate pecan, hazelnut and almond tarts. Also, in the midweek recipe, steak with garlicky chard.
  • Plus Anna Jones’ Cook recipes included a cracking looking and sounding beetroot soda bread.

From the internet

We look, again, to Lucky Peach. This time for two dumpling recipes – both very different to each other. The first for potato and cheese pierogi (Poland, “by way of Detroit”). The other, Chicago restaurant Fat Rice’s potsticker dumplings — held together by a light crepe batter, and with loads of flavours in the filling and dipping sauce.

#Supplemental Cooking

I cooked Tommi’s chicken thigh, roast quince, barley and chickpea number. Lovely stuff — particularly the sumac, buttermilk, white wine vinegar and roast chicken juice dressing for the grains.

Weekend Menu, 5 and 6 November 2016

Griddled chicory, roast grape and Gorgonzola salad

Diana Henry, The Telegraph ‘Stella’

Mutton tagine with grapes and braised barley

Rose Prince, The Telegraph

Plum, chestnut and walnut tart

Yotam Ottolenghi, the Guardian Weekend magazine

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