Here we go, then. Episode #125. Whoop whoop. Let’s go by newspaper group.
The Times and Sunday Times
A good old beetroot chocolate cake from Jamie Oliver in The Sunday Times Magazine. Serves 14 people, apparently. Not on my watch, pal.
Also on Sunday, more Abel and Cole linked recipes via Florence Knight. Who could say no to crab and braised fennel risotto (save those with crustacean allergies)?
Omar Allibhoy provided tapas recipes in Saturday’s Weekend section. Grilled cuttlefish and stuffed courgettes were pretty appetising. Also an interesting was an cauliflower ensmemble: florets poached in milk then cooled; a warm dressing of capers, cumin, sherry vinegar and olive oil, along with the cauli greens.
The Saturday mag had the Only 4 Souvlaki (well, skewers) You’ll Ever Need! Plus the usual melange of Donna Hay’s recipes. Healthy. Or quick. Or delicious. Or something. Chicken Caesar with crispy kale probably the best of them.
The Financial Times
Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer’s offering, this weekend, was simple but no doubt effective: sardines baked quickly over pitta, cherry tomatoes and plenty of oil and salt.
On Sunday, lovely, encouraging words by Diana Henry about River Cottage cook Gill Meller in the Stella magazine. But even better recipes from Meller’s book, Gather: fried pheasant with quince and bay; butter roasted barley flakes and leeks; damsons with sage, camembert and cacao; blackberry and apple meringue with walnuts. Jeez. Gorgeous the lot of them. Go buy his book.
Also, consider this Riverford Organics suggestion of a beetroot and pink peppercorn gratin. An excellent side or main as the nights close in.
The Guardian and Observer
Yet more of Gill Meller in the Guardian Cook Residency slot. This week focused on celeriac: soup; raw matchsticks with grapes, chicory and a honey and mustard dressing; and, best of the bunch, puréed and roast celeriac with ham and buckwheat.
Rachel Roddy was back for Cook readers, with one of those recipes that sounds much more impressive in Italian: tagliatelle and ‘bursting tomatoes’. As always, classy writing. “You finish what summer has started: heat and salt help the tomatoes burst into a softness and release their liquor, which mixes with the olive oil to create a rich, silky sauce.”
Sloe gin poached pears and a polenta cake decked with pears and cobunts, by Claire Ptak. And I’m tempted by the fig and orange blossom jam in Anna Jones’ piece on simple, seasonal preserves.
In the Saturday Magazine: balsamic baked new potatoes with taleggio cheese and bay; and a godly damson trifle. Thomasina Miers, stop it.
Also, some ‘old school’ recipes from back when Yotam Ottolenghi’s first book, Ottolenghi, The Cookbook, was originally published. Doesn’t seem that long ago (eight years), but look at the roast chicken with sumac, za’atar and lemon recipe, and try to remember a time when this wasn’t something every writer suggested. The book is being reissued with an up-to-date intro etc, and it’s one worth having on your shelves.
In the OFM, big Nige was doing what he does best: Autumn. Quail roast with figs; roast carrots and beetroot with an almond and ras el hanout yoghurt dressing; pork belly with plums and pistachios; toasted apple and blueberry brioche with cashew and honey butter; and ideal coffee fodder – cardamom, hazelnut and chocolate cookies.
And in the normal magazine, too: keep haddock, clam and celeriac soup in mind for the rainy days and nights.
Back in the OFM, there were some ‘relaxed’ home recipes from Marcus Wareing. Though I’m not sure the interview above them will endear you to him or encourage adding it to the shelves.
On the internet
Freddie Janssen’s chipotle pickled eggs are on Munchies.com. Pure filth.
Sorry, been away, hence the random cured egg yolks as a picture above. I’d have cooked Meller’s leeks and barley, the Ottolenghi chicken and Tommi’s damson trifle, were I at home and hungry.
Weekend Menu, 17 and 18 September 2016
Puréed and roast celeriac with buckwheat and ham
Gill Meller, The Guardian ‘Cook’
Crab and braised fennel risotto
Florence Knight, The Sunday Times
Thomasina Miers, The Guardian
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