Supplemental #122

Lots of plums in Worcestershire for the Bank Holiday. Unfortunately there weren’t any recipes for them in the weekend supplements (see Claire Ptak from last Saturday, though). But many of the recipes were tempting.

  • The Guardian Cook featured a host of cracking recipes (as usual), including:
    • Anna Jones’ vegetarian BBQ ideas: harissa and lime halloumi flatbreads; and charred courgettes with mozzarella and lovage.
    • Claire Ptak anticipating the beginnings of the apple season with a killer apple and pink peppercorn tarte Tatin (including a rough puff recipe for keenos).
    • New Resident Gill Meller (of River Cottage fame) provided three ways for your family to feast on end of summer tomato gluts: a kind of panzanella; roast under fish with marjoram and garlic; and with spaghetti and fried chicken.
    • Rachel Roddy’s notes came via Dorset rather than Rome this week, and finished with a suggestion of chickpeas, rainbow chard and cherry tomatoes (to go with something rich and fatty, or perhaps salty feta).
  • Over in the main magazine, Tommi’s borlotti, date and apple salad tempted. But it was hard to tear my eyes from black bream with burnt aubergine and Sicilian onions (sugared and soured and studded with currants).
  • And, blimey, ten years of Ottolenghi recipes were marked by a new set of aubergine recipes. I’d happily eat them all: Paneer suffer aubergine in red lentil and coconut sauce; roast aubergine and tomato bake with walnut and rocket; roast aubergine with anchovies and oregano. (How do you do aubergine emojis on non-smart phone keyboards??)
  • More bream in Sunday’s Observer. Nigel Slater suggested topping some almost fully roasted peppers and tomatoes with a fish or two, and cooking them together for a final fifteen minutes. Sticky and sweet and probably just as tasty as the artichoke and tomato stew in the same column.
  • The Sunday Telegraph ‘Stella’ magazine brought a selection of recipes from Diana Henry’s new book ‘Simple’ – no fuss, uncomplicated yet tasty and interesting scran. I liked, in particular, the idea of pork loin with pumpkin purée and pecorino; though wouldn’t say no to fregola, courgettes and burrata; or a melon, blueberry and feta salad with ginger and mint.
  • A day earlier, Stephen Harris became the latest to lavish praise on Victor Arguinzoniz – the man behind Asador Etxebarri, and a huge influence on any chef cooking over the current ‘live fire’ love-in. Nothing too fancy in the recipe that followed (BBQ that’s achievable without a kettle drum or Big Green Egg – phew). Just a smart way of cooking a butterflied leg of lamb over flames, plus smoky aubergine and couscous.
  • I reckon I can spot whether the FT Weekend’s cooking column is by Rowley Leigh, the Honey & Co. duo or A.N.Other, just by looking at the recipe title. This week ‘tuna dip, broccoli, potato and eggs pointed firmly towards Leigh, who told readers…. wait, is that Honey & Co in the byline? Losing my touch, obviously. Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich provided details for making a tonnato sauce, and dipping crudités into it, rather than smearing it over veal – an easy tip for entertaining.
  • I didn’t see any recipes from Nadiya Hussein in the Saturday Times magazine (though would like to see more relating to her ‘Chronicles of Nadiya’ TV show. Instead, a set of relatively standard desserts by Trish Deseine (rhubarb Eton mess, lemon tart, choc mousse etc) in the Magazine; and Italian bakes from Gennaro Contaldo in the Weekend section.
  • Finally, in the Sunday Times Magazine, three delicious desserts care of Florence Knight (puds are her strongest suit, I think): honeyed panna cotta with figs; warm amaretto zabaglione and cherries; and an eggy upside down apricot cake (pan di Spagna).

On the internet

A lattice topped fruit pie for my plums, on Serious Eats.

I like the look of the honey and summer berry pavlova-cum-mess by James Lowe at the end of his and Rosie Boycott’s fruit picking video.

Have you got a kilo of limes and 40 cloves of garlic kicking around? Nightmare. Try this onion bhaji and lime pickle recipe on

 #Supplemental cooking

Home for the weekend. So, damsons picked, stewed and set into cheese, and pricked and combined with gin; plus loads of those plums under a crumble. Nowt from the papers, sorry.



Weekend Menu, 27 and 28 August 2016

Charred courgettes, burrata and lovage

Anna Jones, The Guardian ‘Cook’

Black bream, burnt aubergine and Sicilian onions

Thomasina Miers, The Guardian

Honeyed panna cotta with figs

Florence Knight, The Sunday Times

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