No intro waffle this week. Just a run down, paper by paper.
The Times and Sunday Times
The Dish landed in the laps of Sunday Times readers. This month the supplement rolled with a picnic theme – here’s hoping the next seven days or so of weather is good enough to enjoy the recipes, which included:
The mother of all BBQ puddings – grilled pineapple with honey and lime – from the people behind Brazilian-ish restaurant Cabana (Rio, innit). They suggest BBQ’ing pineapple in thick slices for 3-4 minutes a side. Sounds about right. Though I have to say I’m fan of leaving a whole pineapple over gentle coals for much longer, and then slicing – so juicy. From the same people, grilled sea bass in banana leaves (I’ll just collect some leaves from my banana orchard out the back); and cachaca grilled chicken.
In the main magazine (I think), there was, oooh haiii Dan Doherty you dish (he’s that dashing one who cooks in the clouds at Duck and Waffle). A handful of recipes from Dan’s new book Toast, Hash, Roast, Mash presented folk with numerous breakfast and brunch dishes. I liked the look and sound of Mexican eggs (cheese, chipotle, avo and lime salsa); and chickpea pancakes with lentil and squash dhal.
A day earlier, there were some tomato recipes in Saturday’s Times Weekend. If you’re not a subscriber, don’t worry about not being able to get through the pay wall.
More worthy of my monthly fee were Donna Hay’s ‘store cupboard’ recipes in The Magazine. I really liked the braised sauerkraut chicken with potatoes and sour cream. Also slow cooked maple lamb pasta with fennel and olives. And tarragon crab cakes with aioli.
The Telegraph and Sunday Telegraph
Stephen Harris kept things simple and classic in The Telegraph: some sandwiches for the cricket, plus a lemon drizzle (king of tea time cakes?).
Bill Granger appeared on their web pages too (I presume a Sunday Stella mag thing?). The former Independent on Sunday writer presented a selection of ‘fresh Aussie breakfast breakfasts‘. Things like hot smoked salmon, avocado and cavolo nero with poached eggs; buckwheat with poached eggs, goat’s yoghurt, rose harissa and avocado; courgette, halloumi, grains. Start the day with a salad? Those Aussies and their updside-down ways.
The Guardian and Observer
YES Nige. On Sunday, the sage Observer cook noted that “the more sticky the weather, the more I want cool, sharp flavours; food that is light, refreshing and, above all, has a snap of acidity to it.” Such as: mackerel pickled with juniper, coriander seeds and bay; and salmon that’s lightly browned (but not fully cooked), then left to souse for a bit with ginger and star anise flecked warm vinegar.
One day earlier in the Guardian’s glossy mag, Yotam went for five spiced pork belly with a peach, raspberry and watercress salad. See also his hazlenut, peach and raspberry cake, and a lush raspberry and almond stuffed peach with amaretto sabayon.
There were further nice cakey things over the page thanks to Tommi Miers‘ buttermilk and honey cake, with honeyed apricots. This followed summery lamb burgers with a minty potato, feta and pea salad.
Reader I paused, for a while, over a frozen blackberry-geranium cream from Claire Ptak.
Also, very much worth considering Anna Jones’ raw vegetable salads – carrots and mustard seed, and a crunchy cauliflower and radish one with a sharp yoghurt dressing.
I have it on good authority that if you make and / or eat Marianna’s Leivaditaki’s fisherman’s soup once, you’ll want to repeat experience through your lifetime. Take a look in the Cook supplement: it seems pretty simple, like all the best recipes.
And note the last paragraph of Rachel Roddy’s intro to her baked stuffed tomato recipe. In there lies a few gentle but vital tips as to the preparation of her dish; with the takeaway advice being that patience is a virtue. In a world where so many cook books and recipes seem to point us in the direction of speedy food, it’s so good to see someone bucking the trend.
The FT Weekend
This weekend the FT’s cookery baton was gripped by Rowley Leigh, who suggests we barbecue a plump rabbit with chorizo and butternut squash, serving those things with lemon wedges and a romesco sauce. A bottle of two of rioja on the side.
And who would argue with that?
From the internet
Of all the web trawling I did this week, I was most struck by a picture of a vagina shaped ‘cob’ oven on Ms Marmite Lover’s blog. Homemade.
If that doesn’t suit your supper plans, try this Japanese chicken and egg oyakodon over on Serious Eats.
Just some plums.
Weekend Menu, 6 and 7 August 2016
Baked stuffed tomato and potatoes
Rachel Roddy, The Guardian ‘Cook’
Marianna Leivaditaki, The Guardian ‘Cook’
Raspberry and almond stuffed peach with amaretto sabayon
Yotam Ottolenghi, The Guardian
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