Gonna run down this weekend’s recipes by newspaper group and try to hit them for consecutive sixes. (Nothing to suggest independent.co.uk will continue with weekend recipes, btw, so we’re definitely two supplements down.)
There were a host of good recipes in The Sunday Times’ ‘The Dish’ monthly supplement (viewed on their swanky, vastly improved new website and app), including:
More bits from Felicity Cloake’s A-Z of Eating, such as a funky beetroot juice cooked spaghetti, goat’s cheese and walnut number; and a punchy sounding pistachio, polenta, cardamom and pink grapefruit cake.
Mighty fishy bits from Nathan Outlaw. Think pan-fried scallops with creamed chicory and orange dressing; red mullet with girolles and a garlic aioli; and, of course, his perfect fish pie (cod, salmon and smoked haddock in equal parts).
And rhubarb, honey meringue and buttermilk granita bits via Seb Myers of Sagar and Wilde restaurant.
The day before, The Times Magazine published a set of classic French bits by Michel Roux Jr. “People always ask why I go on about the classics. Well, they’ve stood the test of time. People go back to them time and time again because they are good, they are comforting and they work.” Fair point. There were eight dishes. Fricassee´of chicken and tarragon; and Savoyade gratin stood out.
The Telegraph and Sunday Telegraph hosted a bunch of cookery book releases. All of which are relatively new voices in food. And all of which seem loverly.
Elly Pear’s Fast Days and Feast Days is just about the only ‘healthy eating’ habit you should consider. Elly pushes proper food made from scratch every day of the week; it just so happens that two of those days involve only 500 calories (‘fast days’). Her book shows you how to make those fast days bearable (more than bearable, actually – the food looks great). And also helps you pig out on the ‘feast’ days too: king prawn fennel and grapefruit salad; salmon rice bowl with pickles and seeds; various super frittatas.
There were some really delicious looking Iranian inspired cakes provided by Yasmin Khan. I’m pretty sure her book The Saffron Tales features savoury Persian recipes too. But yoghurt cake with poached figs (among other things) is enough to whet the appetite for now.
And in Saturday’s Telegraph, Sumaya Usmani was persuasive on the need for the cuisine of Pakistan to have a louder voice. Recipes from Summers under the Tamarind Tree included mutton biryani with sour plums and pomegranate, chickpea batter okra and sweet potato and squash parathas.
Oh, and how did I miss Xanthe Clay’s 3 ingredient Mars bar cake the other week? (Mars, eggs, flour). NAUGHTY.
The FT Weekend
FT readers saw baked artichokes and dipping bits from Honey & Co’s Samit Packer and Itamar Srulovich.
The dipping options were ricotta, preserved lemon, paprika and olive oil; or a paste of roast garlic, pistachio and chilli. Nice.
The Guardian and Observer
Where to begin?
Thomasina Miers’ weekend cooking in Saturday’s Guardian Magazine seems as good a place as any: smoky beetroot Scotch eggs with a chilli piquillo pepper relish look like a crowd pleasing project; and pearl barley broth, Jersey royals and wild garlic broth appears calming and wholesome.
Lord Nigel wasn’t around on Sunday. Instead, Observer readers were treated to Joseph Trivelli – a River Café chef and a Nige replacement who’s been seen before and once again proved more than adequate. This time round he provided three broad bean recipes … Now I’m not sure it’s quite time for the little chaps yet. But when the pods are ready to pop, recipes for lamb with broad beans and fennel seeds; and broad bean, new pots and dandelion salad (with anchovies and a gribiche dressing) are worth trying.
Yotam was spinach focused. Of the three, halibut with spinach bechamel and rye crumbs caught my attention.
In ‘Cook’, Olia Hercules taught us four ways with braised buckwheat (and how to braise that buckwheat in the first place). Have a read and try them all – it’s such an underused ingredient.
Also, sadly, the end of the Duck Soup residency. Their forthcoming book is one I’m really keen on – I love their massive flavours, yet easy, laconic style of cooking. This week’s recipes were on a herby allium theme. Lamb chops and wild garlic sauce was one option. Red onions, peas, fried green chilli and labneh.
Do a little dance for (and cook) Helen Graves’ Chipotle goat tacos with sour creamed corn.
Best way to poach chicken? From a cold, standing start, according to Serious Eats. Have a read.
I was away from home this week, so no recipe testing. But I would probably have had a go at Tommy’s pearl barley broth, or Felicity’s kinda crazy sounding beetroot juice spaghetti.
Weekend Menu, 2 and 3 April 2016
Red onions, peas, fried green chilli and labneh
Tom Hill and Claire Lattin, The Guardian ‘Cook’
Halibut, spinach bechamel, rye crumbs
Yotam Ottolenghi, The Guardian
Rhubarb, honey meringue and buttermilk granita
Seb Myers, The Sunday Times, ‘The Dish’
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