The final edition of The Independent on Sunday rolled off the press in the early hours of 20 March. Its New Review supplement featured snapshots of key moments covered by the Sindy over the previous 26 years; the fact there was no room for recipes this time round was a reminder that (a) we’ll miss their food pages going forward, but also that (b), however fashionable cooks and cakes are, it’s just tea, isn’t it? Best of luck to the Sindy team.
I’m winding back into gear after a week off. So this #Supplemental is in (relatively) speedy bullet form. These were the recipes and columns that stood out:
- Olia Hercules‘ Easter feast in Saturday’s Telegraph featured a lovely sounding rabbit and marjoram stew; sticky rum babas; and my highlight – asparagus with sorrel gribiche, sweet sour radishes and boudin blanc.
- There were plenty of good Easter brunch ideas the following day from the Sunday Telegraph’s Diana Henry – not cloying or chocolate heavy, but fresh, zippy, savoury and / or spicy. Think merguez, avocado and white beans with chermoula; buttermilk pancakes with passion fruit curd; and mango, pink grapefruit and lychee with ginger.
- On the same (alternative) festive theme, Thomasina Miers’ column in the Guardian Weekend mag was about Easter eating: both lamb harira (Moroccan soup) with burnt yoghurt; and radish, grapefruit and burrata salad with pistachio and mint pesto looked ace.
- It’s worth checking out Saturday’s guest Goan ‘feast’ in the Guardian’s Cook. The chef at Brixton’s excellent Kricket restaurant / shipping container gave us a stellar recipe for hake and samphire curry, to be served with a hispi cabbage thoran and pineapple pickle.
- I also really liked Cook’s four ways with minced pork (and ginger): on skewers; in a miso soup; as part of a banh mi sandwich; and with egg fried noodles. All simple things to put together, but also all packed with flavour.
- On nearby pages, many lovely words from Rachel Roddy about deep frying, Roman style. And three simple but recipes which use cheese as a seasoning by Duck Soup’s Tom Hill and Claire Lattin. My favourite was the cheeky dittalini, wilted watercress, cow’s curd and lemon zest number.
- There was plenty of good stuff in this month’s OFM. Peter Gordon’s salads looked good. Though I liked the piece on using ‘waste’ the most.
- Mark Hix’s recipes in Saturday’s Independent were from his new restaurant within Damien Hirst’s Pharmacy gallery. Looks like the menu there is global / eclectic, with things like a killer lamb pie and an intriguing shaved butternut squash, asparagus and Treviso salad. Anyone know what the plan is for the Indy’s recipe pages once the title moves to only digital next month?
- Speaking of eclectic, 6 sub 30 minute meals from Donna Hay in Saturday’s Times included sumac lamb (racks) with parmesan cauliflower purée.
- Ottolenghi jotted down a handful of chorizo recipes for Guardian readers.
- Note Itamar Srulovich’s potato and apple fritters and apple compote in the FT Weekend.
- And Nigel’s lamb belly boulangere. (Blimey)
- The Sunday Times featured some fine looking Basque recipes from José Pizarro’s new book. From slow cooked broad beans with poached egg, through chicken stewed in cider and apples, to spinach and goat’s cheese croquetas, all appealed.
- Also in the ST, Jamie Oliver’s double layer rhubarb and custard pavlova … cor.
- Finally, Stephen Harris wrote good things about the accidental creation of a chocolate mousse cake. And gave Telegraph readers the recipe.
Nothing from the papers this weekend, but I did cook Pampushky (garlic bread) from Olia Hercules’ Mamushka and a rosewater, coconut and raspberry baked cheesecake from Honey & Co’s Baking Book. Thumbs up to both.
Weekend Menu, 19 and 20 March 2016
Asparagus, sorrel gribiche, radishes and boudin blanc
Olia Hercules, The Telegraph
Grilled creamed spinach with chorizo migas
Yotam Ottolenghi, The Guardian
Rhubarb and custard pavlova
Jamie Oliver, The Sunday Times
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